2-1/4" by 1-3/4" Door Latch Restorer Strike Plate for Doors, 2 PCS Universal Door Lock Hardware with Foul 1" Long Screws (Satin Nickel)

Great fix for old door locks! Our house is 46 years old and still settling. Front door lock would no longer align properly with striker plate. Thought about grinding or filing old stirker but not enough room. With a little work on fixing the door jam to accomodate the longer slot this striker worked perfectly. Took about 45 minutes of diy labor and $10 for the two strikers. Now our lock works 100% and we have an extra striker plate!

Excellent product. It fixed the closure problems I had on two doors with no hassle.

Great replacement for houses with seasonal settling issues like mine. Our house was built on "shrink/swell" soil and seasonally, several doors in the house shift position such that they no longer latch. After years of frustration and modifications to the existing striker plates, I bought these and couldn't be happier! The vertical opening is larger than a standard plate and all I did was locate the lowest (or highest) position of the latch, set the plate so some additional clearance existed, traced the plate, chiseled out a small amount of material to accommodate the new location and screwed it in place. The 4 holes (vice 2 on a standard latach) means I don't have any issues with the existing screw holes. The plate's holes are nicely countersunk so the screws lay flush and the entire operation for 1 door took less than 15 minutes.I don't understand why the Fakespot rating on this item is a "D" rating. I am to the point where I have little faith in Fakespot because there is absolutely nothing wrong with these striker plates and I am certain I'll have no more issues going forward. If your doors "move" seasonally or even if your house has just settled to a new position, I'd grab these items. I'm a happy camper.

Good quality plate, worked fine for me. My front door is over 50 years old. The frame has shifted a few times over the years. Most recently we had a hell of an earthquake here. I also installed a new harder rubber weather stripping around the door. I installed a new bottom lock with a locking latch. The plate did not make and I couldn't lock the bottom lock. I needed to remove less then an eighth of an inch from the frame. This plate fit perfectly in the notch screwed it in no problem and filled the back with the JB weld steel, great stuff. The good thing about this plate is that it has four screws and of course oversized slot for the lock. In my opinion, great design.For those of you who are concerned about the screw length more than likely it will be adequate but for added extra protection I put in two number eight drywall screws 2 in long. Heads are a little bit larger but the screws fit just fine the head sticks out fractionally. If you are concerned about that and for some reason your door doesn't close, more than likely it will, you could always use a small cone shaped rotary file attachment for a drill and ream it out a bit. All in all, I would highly recommend this for anybody who has a similar problem.

If your latch plate holes are stripped out, this will definitely help because it allows you to screw into fresh areas on the frame for a secure fit.

This product works. If your strike and bolt are out of alignment this is a great fix. (I have a new house and the trim carpenters did not do a good job of ensuring the bolt holes aligned with the strike holes) I read other reviews about the “non-standard” hole pattern. This is one of the best aspects actually. If you have to enlarge the hole to accommodate a higher strike position you won’t have any wood left to secure a standard strike mounting pattern. This is why the four offset holes work so well.If you need to bend the tab to adjust the door strike to close tightly, I recommend flat jaw pliers to bend vs. using a screwdriver. The metal is thick and hard to bend just with a screwdriver in the slot.Note:1. You will need to make some modifications to the mortise where the strike goes. A $7 wood chisel and some careful marking with a pencil will do this just fine.2. The hole in the jamb will need to be enlarged. I used a vibrating multi-tool, as a chisel will not work well. You could also use a hole saw.3. I have a little painting touch up to do where I slipped and marred the door stop, but that’s on me. Take your time and it will work fine.4. I did two doors in less than an hour from start to finish including cleanup.5. Tools needed:PencilChisel, ideally smaller than 1/2” wideSmall drill for the holesPhillips screwdriver3/4” Hole saw or multi tool with a narrow blade (3/4” or smaller) to enlarge jamb hole.Patience.Overall it works great for the intended purpose, and I ordered two more for my last two doors with the same issue.

Solved my issue with a door that just would not latch with the more standard size strike plate. The gab in this plate is slightly larger. Also because of the four screw holes it can be adjusted in a different position. If you have a door that shifted for any reason this will almost for sure fix the issue if it's not extreme.

Great quality